May 13, 2006
The Crossing, Straight of laceName w:st="on">San JuanlaceName> laceName w:st="on">Fuca & JameslaceName> laceType w:st="on">IslandlaceType>, on laceName w:st="on">DecaturlaceName> laceType w:st="on">IslandlaceType>.
Position: 48’ 31.17’ North, 122’ 46.51’ West
Captain: Arieyeh J. Austin
Time on Water: 10 hours, 10 minutes
The Straights of San Juan Fuca are renowned for their violent waters and ability to change in a short period of time, leaving mariners at the mercy of the wind and waves. Barb and I had been very careful in planning our crossing. We had waited in the laceName w:st="on">KilisutlaceName> laceType w:st="on">HarborlaceType>, laceName w:st="on">MysterylaceName> laceType w:st="on">BaylaceType> and Port Townsend Marina for close to four days hoping for good weather. Today had to be the day. If we left early in the morning, the current should have pushed us out of the Kilisut Harbor towards the Straight of San Juan Fuca and point Wilson, and then, if we timed it just right, we could ride the out current straight to James Island on the East side of the San Juan Islands. The marine forecast was predicting light and variable winds out of the West at 5-15 knots with 1-2 foot wind waves. It was also supposed to be clear skies in the mid 60’s. Along with Nesaru’s four knots, we planned on adding another 1 from the tides and current and two-three from the winds on a broad reach. A course of almost 311 degrees would bring us home, with an estimated travel time of six hours. That was the plan, at least.
As we rounded out of laceName w:st="on">MarrowstonelaceName> laceType w:st="on">IslandlaceType> and Walan Point, we were greeted again by laceName w:st="on">BabylaceName> laceName w:st="on">SeallaceName> laceType w:st="on">IslandlaceType>. The beach was lined with hundreds of seals, basking in the morning sunlight. Their bright reflective bodies draped out over the beach was nostalgic to us, reminding us of why we were on this trip to begin with. Not many places can bring you as close to nature as the Pacific North West can. Once out of the channel, we were greeted by 15-20 knots out of the west – far more then we had hoped for. As we raised and trimmed the sails, we decided to double reef the main, just in case. If there was 15-20 knots here, the Straight was sure to have 20-30! After a quick huddle as to what we should do, we decided to attempt the passage. We had waited to long already, and the marine forecast was ALWAYS wrong. If it was too rough, we could always turn back into Point Hudson and spend another day with Carral at the Sail Loft. We prepped all of the man over board equipment and dawned life jackets, just in case. I must say, if Carral had not shown us how to properly reef the main we would have been in a bit of trouble I think. As it turned out, all ran smoothly. We crossed out of laceName w:st="on">WilsonlaceName> laceName w:st="on">PointlaceName> and into the Straight passing by the light house and laceType w:st="on">FortlaceType> laceName w:st="on">WardenlaceName> laceType w:st="on">State ParklaceType>. Once there, we were greeted by 4-5 foot seas and more wind then I cared for. We loosened the main and staysail sheets, and buckled down for the run.
Several other boats were headed out with us, and this reassured us a bit. Luckily, as the day wore on, the winds and waves slowly began to subside. As they did, we steadily released one, then both reef points and then hoisted the jib. Soon we were at a full 8-9 knots, running with the tide and sailing a smooth broad reach, just as we had planned! If the wind had held, we could have made the tip in fewer than four fours – but it didn’t, and as we reached the middle of the straight we were in less then a knot of wind. Out planned six hour trip turned into 7, and then 8. This did not bother us to much, however, as a pod of Pacific North West Dolphins joined us on three different occasions, bobbing up and down beside us from time to time. We took turns looking for them, and passed the rest of the passage away prepping and firing both 12 pound replica cannons from the deck! It was a good sail and a fun day. The seals, dolphins, and cannons made for the perfect trip. Both Barb and I were embarrassed at how worked up we had made ourselves over the entire thing. The storm we were in at laceName w:st="on">PovertylaceName> laceType w:st="on">BaylaceType> was 10 times worse then here, even at the 20 knots. It was such a good day that Sophia even spent most of the trip on the deck, watching for Dolphins. By the evening we had pulled West of Decatur Head Point, into the bay on laceName w:st="on">JameslaceName> laceName w:st="on">IslandlaceName>. There was a float in the center of the bay. Docking was a bit of a challenge as the tide was working against us, so I assisted at the helm until we could reach the dock. A family of harbor Seals greeted us as we docked, and the first thing I noticed as I stepped onto the hard was two great bald eagles swooping above us and the island. It was surreal… Sailed across the Straight with Dolphins, and greeted at the Islands by Eagles! What more could we ask for?.... well, apparently Raccoons – en masse!
On the dock we met two separate families. The first, Earl, was the skipper of a large motor boat from the 1950’s. She was in great shape, and you could tell from talking to him that he really loved her. He told us to watch out for the Raccoons on the Island, as he had several on his boat the night before. The plan this evening was to take a HUGE flashlight up to shore and see if we could “catch” them sneaking up on us. The second family was Todd and Tara, mother and father of two boys and one girl. They also had a dog named Ceana. Sophia instantly fell in love with them; witch made the visit to laceName w:st="on">JameslaceName> laceName w:st="on">IslandlaceName> a dream for us. As Sophia and the boys ran up and down the shore, Todd (who is in the Navy), Tara, Barb and I stayed next to the fire relating tales of our trips and adventures. We discussed real estate, politics, as well as the islands. It was dream like, particularly in comparison to the drear of Port Townsend. The Two eagles were constantly over head, and a dozen harbor seals stayed in the harbor next to the boats until sun down. One pup was so bold as to conduct some high maneuver turns right next to the dock where Barb and Sophia were standing. It became painfully apparent to Barb and I after short while that we were woefully unprepared for the hard “life.” As we had very little to grill. Tara and Todd offered us some grilled link cod that Todd had caught the day before, and so we shared a bottle of Yellow Tail Shiraz from Australia with them. Frankly, it was an uneven trade, particularly as they cooked us breakfast the next morning as well and gave us Starbucks coffee to top it off. They were very friendly, and Bard and I wished we could have spent more time with them.
Just as Earl had promised, that evening while telling stories around the fire we could see dozens of little green eyes all around us, reflecting from the fire light. Earl whipped out a trillion volt death ray of light and flooded the area, revealing at least 10 very hungry and bold raccoons all around us. Some came right up to one end of the picnic table while you we were sitting on the other end! We beat a retreat to our boats, and brought all of the garbage below deck just to be sure. Throughout the night we could hear the pitter patter of little feet all over our decks, and more then once a great cream was heard from Earls boat as one of his daughters chased the litter critters all of the way down the float to the hard. It was a surreal experience, looking out the port window and starring into the face of a coon, who was hungrily looking back at you! What a night.
